Contents:
Exterior Structure Electrical Heating Cooling Attics Plumbing Interior Household Pests Priority Maintenance
Library (more useful informaton)
INTRODUCTION
In a home, very few things are maintenance
free. While it is a bitter pill for most homeowners to swallow,
the fact is that preventative maintenance, with all the time and
money it consumes, is still far more cost effective than the crisis
management approach of waiting until something breaks and then
scrambling to have it repaired. Preventative maintenance can avoid
repairs, extend the life expectancy of many components and in
some cases, reduce energy consumption.
Advance Warning
A systematic maintenance approach also allows one to monitor certain
conditions and components. Regular roof inspections, for example,
will give one enough advance warning to allow for several roofing
quotes in order to make an educated and cost effective purchase
of a new roof covering. If on the other hand, no maintenance is
done, and the roof suddenly leaks, there is very little time to
do comparative shopping. Under these circumstances, one is forced
to go with the roofer who can do the job the fastest - not necessarily
with the roofing materials of your choice or at the best possible
price.
In addition to monitoring systems which
wear out, structural monitoring can also be performed. It is not
uncommon for people who have been living in a house for some time
to suddenly realize that a door frame is out of square and the
door does not close properly. With regular maintenance, the cracks
which occur in the wall surfaces adjacent to the door frame can
be monitored. Knowing whether these cracks have appeared suddenly
or have been increasing at a specific rate, is valuable information
when diagnosing the problem and designing a repair.
Structure Monitoring
Regular maintenance is not everybody's cup of tea. Hiring a handyman
to perform maintenance inspections and minor repairs is not unwise.
Ideally, preventative maintenance inspections
should be performed semi-annually in the spring and fall. However,
some components require more or less frequent inspections. Where
appropriate, this is noted. Records of any work performed should
be noted in the Filing System section.
One last thought. There probably is not
a homeowner alive who performs maintenance inspections to the
degree that we suggest. So take all of this with a grain of salt.
Suffice it to say, the more you do, the better. Please refer to
the chart at the front of this section to assist in creating your
own schedule.
EXTERIOR
Chimneys: Chimneys
should be inspected for loose or deteriorated bricks or mortar.
If covered with stucco or parging, look for cracks or loose sections.
Chimney caps should be inspected for loose or broken sections
as should the protruding clay chimney liners. Chimney flashings
should be inspected for leakage. Efflorescence (a white salt build-up
on the chimney) indicates moisture within the chimney and further
investigation is required. Metal chimneys should be checked for
rust, missing rain caps and loose braces.
Roofs
Shingle Roofs: Roofing should be inspected
for damaged, loose or missing shingles. Special attention should
be paid to high wear areas such as areas where there is significant
foot traffic or areas where downspouts from upper roofs discharge
onto lower roofs. Flashings at dormers, plumbing stacks, valleys,
et cetera, should be carefully inspected. Supports for television
antennas or satellite dishes should be checked. Electric cables
(eave protection) should be well secured and properly powered.
Tree branches should be kept cut back to avoid damaging the roof
surface.
Flat Roofs: Flat
roofs should be inspected for blisters, bubbles, and flashing
details. Tar and gravel roofs should be inspected for areas of
gravel erosion. Tree branches should not contact the roof surface.
Gutters and Downspouts:
Gutters and downspouts should be checked for blockage,
leakage (from rust holes or leaking joints) and areas requiring
re-securing or re-sloping. Paint deterioration should also be
noted. Downspout seams should be checked for splitting (the seam
is usually against the wall). A split downspout is often plugged
with debris. Water accumulates in the downspout, freezes and splits
it open.
Eaves: Soffits
and fascia should be inspected for loose and rotted areas as well
as areas damaged by vermin. Paint condition should be noted.
Walls: Masonry
walls should be checked for deteriorated brick and mortar. Stucco
walls should be inspected for cracking and separating. Wood walls
should be checked for rot, loose or damaged boards, caulking,
and wood/ soil contact. If paint deterioration is the result of
blistering or bubbling, the cause should be determined. It may
be due to outward moisture migration from the interior of the
house, indicating more serious problems.
Metal and vinyl sidings, insulbrick and
shingle sidings should be inspected for mechanical damage and
loose or missing components. All walls should be checked for indications
of settling. Vines should be monitored to determine whether damage
to the wall surface is occurring. Deciduous vines are best checked
during winter months, when there are no leaves. Vines should be
kept cut back from wood trim (windows, doors, eaves, etc) and
from gutters.
Exposed Foundation Walls:
Foundation walls should be inspected for deteriorated brick, block,
mortar or parging. Cracking due to settlement should also be noted
and monitored.
Grading: The
grading immediately adjacent to the house should be checked to
ensure a slope of one inch per foot for the first six feet away
from the house (where practical). Catch basins should be cleaned
and tested.
Doors and Windows:
Caulking and weather-stripping should be checked. Broken or cracked
panes of glass should be replaced. Storms should be installed
in the fall and screens in the spring. The finishes should be
checked for paint deterioration and rot (particularly sills).
Window wells should be cleaned.
Porches and Decks:
Wooden components should be checked for rot and insect infestation.
Wood should be painted or stained as required. Steps and railings
should be secure.
Garages: Garage
roofs should be checked for wear. The structure should be inspected
for evidence of movement. Wooden components should be investigated
for evidence of rot or insect infestation. Wooden components should
be painted or stained as required.
Automatic garage door openers
should be tested monthly and adjusted to reverse in the event
of an emergency. Floor drains should be cleared and tested.
Driveways and Sidewalks:
Driveways and sidewalks should be checked for cracks and deterioration.
Settling which will result in surface water run off towards the
house should be corrected as should uneven sections which pose
a safety hazard to pedestrians.
Retaining Walls and Fences:
Wooden retaining walls and fences should be checked for rot and
insect infestation. Retaining walls should be checked for evidence
of movement.
Trees, Shrubs and Vines:
Limbs overhanging the house should be cut back. Dead limbs should
be removed. Vines should be trimmed back from all wood surfaces.
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STRUCTURE
Foundation Walls:
Foundation walls should be checked for evidence of deterioration,
dampness and movement. Limited dampness from slow moisture migration
can be anticipated with most older foundation walls. This will
often result in minor surface deterioration. Semi-annual inspections
allow for monitoring of this situation. Cracks and voids should
be filled. Filling cracks allows for easy monitoring of movement
between inspections.
Access hatches should be provided to
all crawl space areas.
Wood Framing:
Exposed wooden structural components in the base-ment should be
checked for evidence of rot and insect infestation. Deterioration
usually results in sagging structural components.
Wall and Ceiling Surface Cracks:
Wall and ceiling surface cracks should be monitored
for evidence of significant movement. Minor movement due to normal
settling and shrinkage should be anticipated.
Door Frames:
Door frames should be checked to determine their square--ness.
Door frames showing significant movement over a six month period
are normally indications of more serious problems.
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ELECTRICAL
Main Panel: The
main electrical panel should be checked annually for rust or water
marks indicating moisture penetration. All breakers should be
turned off and on to ensure none have seized. All fuses should
be tight-ened. A panel which is warm to the touch or smells of
burned insulation should be brought to the attention of an electrician.
Burned wires indicating loose or poor connections should be repaired
by qualified personnel. All circuits should be labeled. Ground
fault circuit interrupters should be tested monthly. Aluminum
wire connections inside the distribution panel should be tightened
annually. This should be done by a qualified electrician. The
area around the panel for roughly three feet in all directions
should be kept clear of storage.
Indoor Wiring:
Poor or loose connections noted when viewing the exposed wiring
in the basement should be corrected by a qualified electrician.
Frayed or damaged wire, including extension cords, appliance cords
and plugs, should be replaced. Loose outlets and switches should
be tightened. Ground fault circuit interrupter electrical outlets
should be tested monthly. Aluminum wire connections throughout
the house should be tightened annually by a quali-fied electrician.
Outdoor Wire:
The mast head and the wires leading to the street (if overhead)
should be inspected to make sure that they are not loose or frayed.
Overhead wiring leading to out buildings such as garages should
also be inspected. Exterior outlets should have proper covers.
Ideally, ordinary exterior outlets should be replaced with ground
fault circuit interrupter type outlets.
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HEATING
All Forced Air Systems:
Conventional filters on forced-air systems should be checked monthly
and cleaned or replaced as needed. Electronic filters should be
checked monthly and cleaned as needed. The manufacturers instructions
should be followed carefully. Care should be taken to ensure the
interior components are installed in the correct orientation after
cleaning.
Noisy blower sections should be brought
to the attention of a technician.
Water levels in humidifiers should be
checked and adjusted monthly. Interior components should be replaced
on an as needed basis. The pad on drum type humidifiers should
be replaced annually. The water supply to humidi-fiers should
be shut off for the summer months and activated for the heating
months. On systems with air conditioning or a heat pump, the damper
in the humidifier ductwork should be closed during the cooling
season.
All Hot Water Systems:
Radiators and convectors should be inspected annually for leakage
(particularly at the valves). Radiators should be bled of air
annually, and as necessary during the heating season.
Circulating pumps should be lubricated
twice during the heating season. Expansion tanks should be drained
annually.
Electric Heat:
Electric furnaces and boilers should be inspected by a qualified
technician every year to ensure that all the components are operating
properly and no connections are loose or burned. The fuses or
circuit breakers in some electric systems can be checked by the
homeowner.
Electric baseboard heaters should be
inspected to ensure an adequate clearance from combustibles. Baseboard
heaters which have been mechanically dam-aged should be repaired
or replaced.
Oil Furnaces and Boilers:
Oil systems should be checked by a qualified technician on an
annual basis. Oily soot deposits at registers of forced-air systems
may indicate a cracked heat exchanger. A technician should be
contacted.
The exhaust pipe from the furnace or
boiler should be checked for loose connections or corroded sections.
The barometric damper on the exhaust pipe should rotate freely.
The chimney clean out should be cleared of any debris. The oil
tank should be inspected for leaks. Soot on the front of the furnace
or boiler may indicate a draft or combustion problem. A technician
should be contacted.
Gas Furnaces and Boilers:
If gas odors can be detected, call the gas company immediately.
Do not turn on any electrical equipment or use anything with an
open flame.
Gas furnaces and boilers should be cleaned
and serviced annually. The exhaust pipe should be checked for
loose or corroded sections. The chimney clean out should be cleared
of any debris. The heat shield (located where the burner enters
the heat exchanger) should be checked to ensure that it is not
loose or corroded. Burn marks around the heat shield may indicate
a draft or combustion problem. A technician should be contacted.
Wood Stoves:
Wood stove chimneys and flues should be checked for creosote build-up
and cleaned at least annually (more frequently depending upon
use). Clearance to combustibles around wood stoves should be maintained
at all times. If there is any doubt about the safety of a wood
stove, contact the city building inspector immediately.
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COOLING/HEAT PUMPS
A qualified technician should be engaged
to inspect the system and recharge it ifnecessary annually. Most
systems require the power to be on for up to twenty four hours
before using the system. A condensate drain line emerging from
the ductwork above the furnace should be visually checked for
leakage during the cooling season.
The outdoor section should be level.
If the outdoor component settles or heaves, adjustments should
be made by a specialist. The refrigerant lines should be checked
for damaged, missing or loose insulation. Debris and vegetation
should be kept away from the outdoor component of the system.
Most manufacturers prefer to have the outdoor component left uncovered
during the winter to prevent rust. The outdoor coil should be
kept clean. A noisy fan may mean a bearing problem or misalignment.
Window air conditioners should be removed for the winter.
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ATTICS
Attics should be inspected annually for
water stains on the underside of the roof sheathing. One should
also look for rot, mildew, and fungus indicating high humidity
levels in the attic. Check to make sure the insulation is not
wet. Some types of loose insulation are prone to being blown around
during periods of high wind. Check for bare spots and ensure that
insulation is not covering pot lights. Attic vents should be checked
to ensure that they are not obstructed. Often, birds build nests
in these vents. Vents at the eaves are often plugged with insulation.
Watch for evidence of pests (squirrels, raccoons, etc.).
Rafters (supporting the roof) and collar
ties (horizontal members running across the attic between opposing
rafters) should be inspected for rot and movement.
NOTE: Be careful walking around. Don't
fall through or step on wires. Compressed insulation loses much
of its insulating value.
PLUMBING
Supply Plumbing:
Supply plumbing should be checked annually for leaks. Precautions
should be taken to ensure that plumbing in areas such as crawl
spaces will not freeze during winter months. Outdoor faucets should
be shut off from the interior and drained for the winter. Operate
the main shut-off valve and critical isolating valves to ensure
proper operation in the event of an emergency. Leaking or dripping
faucets should be repaired.
Well equipment should be inspected semi-annually.
A water quality test should be performed periodically on the advice
of local authorities.
Waste Plumbing:
Visible waste plumbing should be checked for leaks. Basement floor
drains and exterior drains should be checked and cleaned as necessary.
Slow drains within the house should be cleared. Basement floor
drain traps should be filled with water to ensure that they are
not broken. If cracked, or if the water has evaporated, sewer
odors will enter the house.
Septic tanks should be checked and cleaned
if necessary every year.
Fixtures: Toilets
should be checked to ensure that they are properly secured to
the floor. Listen for toilets which run continuously. Grouting
and caulking at all bathroom fixtures should be checked and renewed
as necessary. Sump pumps should be tested.
Water Heaters:
Modern water heaters have a test lever on the pressure relief
valve. This lever should be tested every three months or so to
ensure that the pressure relief valve is not seized. If the relief
valve does not discharge near a drain, a bucket will be required.
In some areas, sludge may accumulate
in the bottom of the tank. Draining some water from the bottom
of the tank will indicate the presence of sludge and the necessity
for regular draining. Be sure to shut off the power or fuel supply
prior to draining any water from the tank.
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INTERIOR:
Walls and ceilings should be inspected
for cracks in interior finishes. The amount of movement should
be noted so that it can be monitored in the future. Bulges in
wall and ceiling surfaces should be carefully monitored. Separated
plaster, particularly on ceilings, can fall and cause injury.
Walls, particularly in comers and areas
of dead air (behind drapes for example), should be checked for
evidence of condensation and mildew indicating high humidity levels
within the house. Water stains on interior finishes should be
noted. If the source cannot be detected, they should be monitored.
Door frames should be inspected. Door
frames which become out of square during a relatively short period
(six months) may indicate structural problems.
Condensation on windows indicates high
humidity levels during winter months. This can sometimes lead
to rot.
Fireplaces and chimneys should be cleaned
and inspected at least annually, depending upon usage.
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HOUSEHOLD PESTS
Carpenter Ants:
Carpenter ants are the largest variety of common ants found in
North America. Carpenter ants do not eat wood; however, they do
nest in it. They earned their name by building galleries in wood
and by carefully finishing the surfaces of these galleries. When
chewing their way through wood they leave small particles resembling
saw dust which they push out of the colony. It is the presence
of this saw dust which indicates a colony. Carpenter ants tend
to be most active in the spring and early summer. They are usually
dormant during a portion of the winter. Outdoors, they feed on
other insects and plant material while indoors they feed on household
food.
To prevent a carpenter ant infestation,
decayed wood should be removed from around the building. Firewood
should not be stored indoors for long periods of time. Wood used
where dampness may occur should be treated with a preserva-tive.
Food stuffs, such as sugar, should be stored in closed containers
and, should a spill occur, it should be cleaned up quickly.
Chemical control of carpenter ants should
be undertaken by a qualified pest control company. Carpenter ants
often nest inside walls, ceilings, outdoor siding, eaves, floors,
window casings, etc. They prefer wet wood, and can often be found
in rotting wood.
Earwigs: Earwigs
are one of the most common pests in homes and gardens. They eat
both plant and animal food. They often damage flowers, fruit and
vegetables.
Chemical treatment for the control of
earwigs should be applied in June or early July. The treatment
should be applied along building foundations, under porches and
around fences, wood piles, garages and tree trunks. Chemical treatment
is effective in the short term, however, it is not uncommon for
a garden to be reinfested in as little as two weeks after treatment.
Earwigs are nocturnal, searching for food at night and hiding
during the day.
Silverfish: Silverfish
are nocturnal and prefer damp dark areas of the house. They appreciate
warm temperatures and can often be found in furnace rooms. They
feed on starchy materials such as wallpaper paste or sizing and
glue. They will also eat bread crumbs and other human food. Sometimes,
they feed on paper or other wood by-products.
While chemical treatment can be effective,
non-chemical treatment also works. Proper vacuuming in areas where
they are likely to hide is essential. Old books, papers, et cetera,
should not be left in unventilated areas for long periods of time.
Small jars, partially filled with water
can be used to trap silverfish. Once inside the jar they cannot
crawl up the sides. The outside of the jar should be covered with
masking tape to allow them to climb up easily.
Cockroaches:
There are many species of cockroaches found in North America.
Cockroaches eat many different things, including food, paper,
plants, glue, etc. They prefer a damp dark environment. Roaches
can be a health hazard as they have been known to carry salmonella
bacteria. Getting rid of cockroaches is very difficult. Good housekeeping
is a must. Spills should be cleaned up promptly and food should
be kept in insect proof containers. If possible, repair any damp
areas in the home.
Chemical treatment is best performed
by a professional.
Sowbugs: Sowbugs
are actually not insects. They are crustaceans (the same family
as shrimp, lobsters, et cetera). Sowbugs seldom do serious damage
to houses; however, they do feed on decaying organic matter and
chronically wet, rotted wood is sometimes their food. They are
usually found in dark, damp environments such as the comers of
basements.
The dryer and better ventilated the basement
is, the less the likelihood of sowbugs.
Termites: Subterranean
termites usually do not live in houses but rather in the soil
below. Termites live on wood. While they prefer damp or decaying
wood, they will also eat sound dry lumber. The damage to the wood
is seldom noticeable as they eat through the interior. If there
is no direct wood/soil contact, termites must build shelter tubes
or tunnels to get from the soil to the wood. It is the presence
of these tubes which indicate an infestation. The tubes are typically
1/4 to 1/2 inch in width and are made of soil glued together by
the termites.
The amount of damage which can be caused
by termites can be extensive. If shelter tubes are noticed, a
pest control company should be contacted immediately. In some
areas, government assistance is available for treatment. In addition
to chemical treatment, it is also necessary to break all wood/soil
contact.
Please refer to Section 9.0 in Structure
for more information.
Fleas: Fleas
are typically brought into the house by animals. They live on
the blood of their hosts. There are many types of fleas; cat fleas,
dog fleas, squirrel fleas, etc. Cat fleas give people the most
problems. Fleas nest on the animal; however, they leave the animal
from time to time and jump onto other species. They never stay,
however. They always return to the host animal. If the host animal
leaves the premises permanently, the fleas which are left behind
will jump onto people, looking for food.
Adult fleas are relatively easy to kill;
however, the larva live in strong protective cocoons. Both the
eggs and the cocoons are very resistant to flea control attempts.
While there are products on the market for the homeowner, best
results are obtained by hiring an expert.
Mice: The typical
life expectancy of a house mouse is approximately one year. During
that time, a female mouse can bear up to eight litters of four
or five mice. While mice will eat virtually any type of food,
they prefer grain and seed. They require very little water. Mice
travel in a very limited territory, usually not much more than
thirty feet from their nest. Mice must gnaw on things to keep
their teeth worn down. They are able to chew through wood, asphalt,
soft mortar and even aluminum. Mice can get through holes as small
as one-half inch in diameter. They are nocturnal creatures.
The best control for mice is proper sanitation.
This includes the storage of food materials in mouse-proof containers
and proper cleaning of spills. Mice can easily be caught in spring
traps using bait such as peanut butter, cheese, bacon, or bread.
Dead mice should be removed promptly.
Poisons can also be used; however, they
must be handled very carefully. Usually the poison has to be consumed
over a period of several days to become effective. If poisons
are to be used, they should be placed in areas where they won't
be found by children or pets. When stored, they should be marked
as poison.
Raccoons: Raccoons
are highly intelligent animals. They will feed on fruits, nuts,
grain, , fish, meat, etc. They are nocturnal animals and are often
found in urban settings.
The best control of raccoons is to preclude
their entry. Chimney flues should be covered with substantial
screens. Garage doors should be kept shut. Garbage should be kept
in closed containers and shields can be provided on T.V. towers
and trees to prevent access to the roofs of buildings. Tree limbs
should be cut back.
Box traps or wire cage traps can be used
to trap the animals so that they can be removed to a remote area.
The trap should be set to catch the raccoon as it approaches its
feeding place. It should be secured to prevent it from being tipped
over and the bait taken. Bait such as corn, melon, prunes and
peanut butter are effective. This is best done by a professional.
It is not wise to corner a raccoon.
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PRIORITY MAINTENANCE FOR HOMEOWNERS
There are so many home maintenance and
repair items that are important, it can be confusing trying to
establish which are the most critical. To simplify things, we
have compiled a short list of our favorites. These are by no means
all-inclusive, nor do they replace any of the information in a
home inspection report. They should, however, help you get started
on the right foot. Remember, any items marked as priority or safety
issues on your home inspection report need immediate attention.
ONE TIME TASKS
- Install smoke detectors as necessary
(usually one on each level of the home, near any sleeping areas).
- Make any electrical improvements recommended
in the home inspection report.
- Remove any wood/soil contact to prevent
rot and insect damage.
- Change the locks on all doors.
- Remove or correct trip hazards such
as broken or uneven walks, patios and driveways. Loose or torn
carpet or flooring should also be repaired promptly.
- Correct unsafe stairways and landings.
(Treads uneven, too narrow, sloped, loose; risers irregular
or too high; landings missing, poorly lit or too small; railings
missing, loose, too low, et cetera).
- Have all chimneys inspected and serviced
before operating any of these appliances.
- Locate and mark the shut-offs for
the heating, electrical and plumbing systems.
- If there is a septic system, have
the tank inspected, and pumped if necessary. If the house is
on a private water supply (well), set up a regular testing procedure
for check-ing water quality.
- If the house has a basement or crawl
space, read Section 10.0, Basement Leakage in the Interior Section
of the Home Reference Book.
REGULAR MAINTENANCE
ITEMS
- Clean the gutters in the spring and
fall.
- Check for damaged roofing and flashing
materials twice a year.
- Cut back trees and shrubs from the
house walls, roof and air conditioning system as needed.
- Clean the tracks on horizontal sliding
windows annually, and ensure the drain holes are clear.
- Test ground fault circuit interrupters
using the test button, monthly.
- Service furnace or boiler yearly.
- Check furnace filters, humidifiers
and electronic air cleaners monthly.
- Check the bathtub and shower caulking
monthly and improve promptly as needed.
- If you are in a climate where freezing
occurs, shut off outdoor water faucets in the fall.
- Install and re-secure door stops as
needed.
- Check attics for evidence of leaks
and condensation and make sure vents are not
- obstructed, at least twice a year.
(Provide access into all attics and crawl spaces.)
- ....more homowner tips
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